LOT 202 An emerald and diamond-set necklace India, Late 19th Century
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31 cm. long approx.; 100 g.
An emerald and diamond-set necklace India, Late 19th Century
consisting of a large central rectangular emerald flanked by diamond-set foliate elements, a strand of ten diamond-set square elements extending out to each side terminating in a diamond-set triangular element, the emerald carved in low relief with a central flowerhead surrounded by foliate motifs, an emerald bead suspended below, verso with floral decoration in white enamel and gold 31 cm. long approx.; 100 g.
|ProvenancePrivate UK collectionBy repute Maharajah Hira Singh of Nabha (1843-1911) and thence by descent.It is likely that the current lot was originally designed as a turban ornament or sarpatti to be worn around the front of the turban, possibly with a kalgi, or feather, attached above. The white and gold enamel to the reverse is quite rare and unusual, however a related piece published in Usha R.Bala Krishnan, Jewels of the Nizams, Mumbai, 2002, p. 88, no. NJ 95.81/1, has been attributed to the Deccan. Turban ornaments including sarpatti such as the current lot were worn only by royalty, nobility or high ranking officials. The sarpatti was developed in the late 18th century, borne out of the habit of wearing a bazuband as a turban ornament: the hinged, three-part central section of the current lot is indeed reminiscent of a bazuband. The diamond-set strands are an elaborate addition which would cover more of the turban in glittering stones: the large, flat, diamonds indicate that this piece was intended for a royal turban.
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伦敦新邦德街
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