A WOMAN’S JADE-GREEN-GROUND KESI SILK ‘CHRYSANTHEMUM’ INFORMAL ROBE, QING DYNASTY

Expert’s note:
The colors jade-green and turquoise are usually reserved for high ranking concubines and female members of the Imperial family.

China, 19th century. Finely worked with colorful leafy blossoming chrysanthemum sprays picked out in vibrant shades of yellow, salmon, and white against a turquoise green ground. The black-ground collar similarly decorated in three-blue silk with vases filled with lingzhi, blossoming lotus and peonies borne on leafy scrolling vines, above a parallel border stitched with a band of stylized butterflies framed by floral bands. The interior lined with bright pink silk.


Provenance
: New York trade. Acquired from the estate of a noted rug-dealer.

Condition
: Very good condition with minor wear, soiling and creasing, few loose threads.

Dimensions: Length 135 cm, Width 154.5 cm (across sleeves)


The kesi technique
is a particularly intricate way of introducing pattern within the weave of the fabric: the various colors are woven on separate bobbins creating the 'cut' effect at the boundaries between the colors, hence the name kesi or 'cut silk'. The technique is extremely time-consuming and skilled, achieving a reverse that is often as well-presented as the front of the fabric.


Chrysanthemums
, symbolizing happiness and vitality, are a popular autumn flower in China and carry special significance during lunar new year celebrations. Since ancient times, people have drunk wine from their fermented petals. Many ancient scholars and philosophers have written about how these flowers promote long life, health, and happiness. Chrysanthemums are mentioned in Chinese historical records as far back as the 15th century BC.


Literature comparison:

Compare a closely related green-ground kesi silk robe with chrysanthemums, 142 cm long, dated to the Tongzhi period, in the Victoria & Albert Museum, accession number T.79-1966.


Auction result comparison:

Type: Related
Auction: Christie’s London, 12 May 2015, lot 205
Price: GBP 10,625 or approx.
EUR 18,000
converted and adjusted for inflation at the time of writing
Description: A jade-green-ground informal robe, late 19th century
Expert remark: Compare the closely related turquoise green ground and the related floral decoration.


Auction result comparison:

Type: Closely related
Auction: Christie’s London, 16 May 2014, lot 1225
Price: GBP 7,500 or approx.
EUR 13,000
converted and adjusted for inflation at the time of writing
Description: A lady’s informal kesi robe, 19th century
Expert remark: Compare the closely related kesi technique and turquoise ground as well as the related floral decoration.




清代湖綠色緙絲菊花紋襯衣

中國，十九世紀。圓領，大襟右衽，不開裾，直身式袍。粉色素紡絲綢裡。領邊裝飾黑地三藍色蘭花紋、蓮花紋與靈芝等。湖綠色素緞上繡松針菊、萬壽菊、牡丹菊、大麗菊等各種各色菊花。


來源：
紐約古玩交易，從一位著名地毯經銷商的遺產中購得。

品相：
狀況極好，有輕微磨損、污垢和摺痕，少量鬆脫的線頭。

尺寸：長135 厘米, 寬154.5 厘米 (兩袖之間)


文獻比較：

比較一件非常相近的同治湖綠色緙絲菊花紋襯衣，長142 厘米，收藏於維多利亞和亞伯特博物館，館藏編號T.79-1966。


拍賣結果比較：

形制：相近
拍賣：倫敦佳士得，2015年5月12日，lot 205
價格：GBP 10,625（相當於今日
EUR 18,000
）
描述：十九世紀末青玉色長袍
專家評論：比較非常相近的綠松石和相近的花紋裝飾。


拍賣結果比較：

形制：非常相近
拍賣：倫敦佳士得，2014年5月16日，lot 1225
價格：GBP 7,500（相當於今日
EUR 13,000
）
描述：十九世紀緙絲女性襯衣
專家評論：比較非常相近的緙絲技巧和綠松石地，以及相近的花紋裝飾。